Lesser cities would have cracked under the strain of the dramatic bust that followed the dotcom boom. But, after a period of flux, San Francisco has taken its troubles in its stride. Certainly, the tourists keep coming, and well they might: it's the most European of the three big Californian cities, and, thanks chiefly to its compact size, easily the most visitor-friendly. Contained within its 47 square miles are some of the country's best restaurants, a cultural scene virtually unmatched for its sparkiness, a fascinating collection of architecture (both ancient and modern) and a raft of delightful and stylish hotels. San Francisco has some major national cultural attractions, but it's also a network of individual neighbourhoods. Most visitors spend their time in touristy, crowded and rather unappealing Fisherman's Wharf and Union Square. "The Time Out" guide takes you as well to where the locals go - North Beach and the Mission, say - or to only-in-San Francisco areas like the Castro and Haight-Ashbury.

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