A Christmas letter from a Polish friend, describing bitter cold and no boots, galvanized Helen de Borchgrave to travel to Poland in March 1984. The country was recovering from martial law, and lacked most things the west take for granted. As well as much-needed provisions, she smuggled forbidden books. Helen was one of a handful of Westerners invited to work in the country at that time. During the course of three years she returned regularly to restore masterpieces in the famous Wawel Castle Museum in Krakow, the first picture conservator from the west since World War II.In her memoir, based on journals she kept, Helen charts in meticulous detail her observations of an impoverished but resilient people struggling under Communism. From an encounter with Leonardo da Vinci's Lady with an Ermine, to learning about Polish art, history and politics, befriending Poland's underground network of artists in their fight for human rights, to the Chernobyl disaster, Helen shares the stories of the fascinating people she met, and became friends with, on her travels. Their fortitude and faith was an inspiration to her.