In this remarkable book, costumer and researcher Marianne Burke presents a richly illustrated study of headwear in the twenty-year period between 1855-1875. Her detailed discussion of the development of hair and headwear styles throughout this era is accompanied by period photographs known as cartes de visite, as well as numerous illustrations from fashion periodicals of the time such as Godey's Lady's Book, Harper's Bazar and Peterson's Magazine. It was during these years that the luxurious French lady dolls, so ardently collected today, assumed their great popularity. Collectors of these dolls have long been frustrated by the lack of accessible instructions and patterns for headwear for their elegant models. This is the first book to teach methods of constructing historically correct hats, caps and bonnets for French fashion dolls of the mid-to-late nineteenth century. The methods of assembly taught pertain to styles for dolls of more contemporary periods, as well. Ms. Burke offers instruction in the practical matters of millinery construction; chapters on tools, materials, making bonnet frames and working with straw and felt provide step-by step directions and culminate in the presentation of twelve fully illustrated patterns for making hats, caps and bonnets for lady dolls. Doll costumers, restorers and collectors will find this invaluable compendium an essential resource, while lovers of fashion history will revel in its visual delights.