As Prague settles into the European Union club, its rebirth as a vibrant Western-style city continues to blossom, with the traces of East bloc communism increasingly hard to uncover. But the City of 100 Spires is also returning to its roots as a decadent, jubilant place that made the word bohemia into a common noun. The smoky jazz clubs, rowdy, cruisy bars and stunning symphony halls (the Czech Philharmonic is the only orchestra David Lynch will use) have been restored to the spirit and role they once served. And it's fast making up for lost time with local designers and artists creating confrontational work at dozens of galleries while the frisson of the Cold War remains in Soviet-era meat shops and chilling monuments. Fully illustrated feature chapters give journalistic insights into architecture and history, plus one-time crime reporter and now editor of "The Prague Post", Frank Kuznik guides us through the sleazy streets of Zizkov. Mini-features include the lowdown on Prague's new assortment of active sports; an insight on the booming sex biz; a guide to the smoke and mirrors of Czech politics, and Hollywood's favourite locations for both shooting and doing shots.