Why are growing numbers of young people taking up surfing, spending hours floating silently on their boards, studying wave patterns, ready to risk serious injury for a few moments of harmony with the ocean's force? Because, according to the author of Dancing the Wave, there is no more fulfilling and profound experience. This unique book interweaves history, mythology, and personal experiences to introduce the reader to the sublime and spiritual art of surfing.
Jean-Etienne Poirier is an avid surfer, skier, and skateboarder, as well as a journalist and cultural anthropologist. He has consulted for international aid organizations, and he lectures on travel themes and mountain climbing.