An outstanding novel from this Australian author. The story is a compelling look at surfing and the fine line between teenage bravado and desperate recklessness; how far two boys go to escape the loneliness and isolation of small-town life, and how the two evils of boredom and hero worship can lead to dangerous ends. The addiction to adrenaline even pervades sex and eroticism, providing the link between the present-day and retrospective narratives of paramedic Bruce Pike and his younger self.
The writing is masterful, albeit bleak – it's not for the faint of heart. The characters are authentic and engaging, and at times the listlessness and angst of the protagonist Bruce border on overpowering. Water and landscape are revered and moody, threatening and intoxicating. Thankfully, some humour worms its way in, and the moments of bliss are enough to ease the tension.
Finishing the book is a relief in the most physical sense; it's one of the few books I have found to be as exhausting as it is rewarding. Truly a must-read.