Add a comment By David –
Now that Kings of War 2nd Edition has arrived my Mantic Ogres are back at the top of the painting queue as I get ready to upsize my army from 1000 to 2000 points.
Since I'm working on another 24 ogres at the moment it's the perfect time for another Gorilla Tutorial! So let's take a look at how I paint my Ogres…
Add a comment By David –
I was excited about working on the Stormcast Eternals from the Warhammer Age of Sigmar Boxed Set for a couple of reasons; they're really well detailed and secondly it gave me a chance to try out the AK Interactive True Metal Series.
So lets take a look at how these nifty wax-based metallic paints work…
Add a comment By David –
In this Gorilla Tutorial I'll take you through a quick and easy way to paint up a Citadel Wood using the Agrellan Earth technical paint to add some extra texture. I'll also show you how to add a desert theme to the base.
You can find all the paints and weathering products used in this project here: Citadel Wood Tutorial
Add a comment By David –
Welcome to another Gorilla Tutorial, our quick tips & techniques series. This time I've got some quick tips for working with Plastic-Resin miniatures, also known as restic miniatures.
Mantic Games use plastic resin for a number of their miniatures, so if you're a Dreadball, Deadzone or Kings of War player then this tutorial will be very useful.
Preparing & Gluing Plastic Resin Miniatures
To remove mould lines from plastic-resin miniatures its best to carefully use the tip of a sharp modelling knife, as opposed to sanding or filing. Unlike hard plastic models, you will also need to us a CA glue, aka super-glue, as plastic cement will not work due to the different material.
Add a comment By David –
Welcome to another Gorilla Tutorial, this time I disucss how to use enamel weathering products to make pin washes.
This week I'm hard at work on an entry for the upcoming Scale Model Show, a 1:72 scale WW1 Mk.A Whippet, and its given me a chance to try out a new technique using products from AK Interactive called pin washing. This is when you apply a thin wash to the recessed areas of a model, such as panel lines, and around raised details like rivets to create shading and depth while also defining the detail.
Once the model had been primed and basecoated with acrylic paints we can get started on the pin-wash. Choose a streaking grime which suits the base colour of your model, for instance if your model is a light colour like white or cream use interior streaking grime, if its a darker shade or green like mine use dark streaking grime.
Thin down the streaking grime with some enamel solvent like odourless turpentine, its available from hardware or art supply stores. Then using a fine detail brush apply it to the recessed areas and on rivets. The pin-wash will flow naturally along panel lines and joins with little effort.
Add a comment By David –
One of the best things about scale modelling and miniature painting these days is that a whole host of advanced techniques and realistic effects are being made more approachable and achievable as new specialized products are released.
In this Gorilla Tutorial I'll take you through how to achieve realistic worn effects and paint chipping using AK Interactive's or Vallejo's chipping fluids.
One of the best techniques used by scale modelers and wargamers to produce chipping effects is the hairspray technique, aptly called because it originally called for the use of hairspray. Now before you run off to the bathroom to grab your mother's/wife's/own can of Pantene, top modeling brands now produce specialised acrylic fluids which are safer and more effective.